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I'm at the South African National Arts Festival in Grahamstown, South Africa. But I nearly didn’t make it. A fortnight before I left, in the wake of the outbreak of Xenophobic violence that claimed more than 60 lives, the Australian government issued a “do not travel alert” for all South African townships which my employer threatened to read as a total ban on travel to South Africa. They were, of course, concerned about my safety (as was my mother – don’t get me started!) which is measured via insurance risk.

Like most of the rest of the West, Australia sees South Africa through a distorted lens of crime, violence and political disappointment...in the dark, rather than up in lights. But I was determined to see a different country. This town, its people and this festival have offered me that perspective.

I’m in Grahamstown to work on the Rhodes University School of Journalism and Media Studies Cue journalism project which incorporates a daily newspaper, radio and TV output along with online publications and a pictures agency. It’s a remarkable series of productions – existing on blood, sweat and, from what I’ve observed, the requisite tension and gallows humour that go with deadline pressure and creative energy. Radio students are filing stories on social and political issues revolving around the festival, and emanating from performances, to a national audience on the SABC and collaborating with photography students to create multimedia output for online; TV students are vod-casting creative coverage of festival life; there’s a convergent blog being overseen by visiting academics from the Netherlands while contributing editors from established publications join Rhodes staff in burning the candle at both ends on the Cue newspaper produced every day of the 10 day festival. That’s my view of "Fest"(as it's known to it's attendants who are called "Festinos") from inside the Cue media production hub – prodigious effort; creative drive and loads of overtime. No wonder you lot won the Rugby World Cup!

My view from outside the walls of production is even more inspiring. I’ve seen performances that have stunned me, moved me, enthralled me, underwhelmed me and left cold…literally. The Dance Factory’s astounding production of Romeo and Juliet utterly enthralled me. It was the first event I attended at Fest and it set the bar very high. My heart pounded in tune with thumping feet, and plasticine bodies turned my head askew as this tragic love affair was played out on an understated stage. The star and choreographer, Dado Masilo, stunned me. She took the stage with a rare boldness – shaved, proud, head and bare feet that stomped out the rhythm of her soul.
Then there was Umrhube – Indigenous Music. What a spectacle! Traditional costumes, songs, dance and instruments merged in this raw, powerhouse performance which literally blew out a speaker! The joy and sense of celebration characterising this performance underscored the hope and resilience of South Africans as I’ve observed them.

At the other end of the spectrum is my most bizarre Fest experience - which falls into the “it’s so bad, it’s laugh out loud funny” category. Grahamstown “identity” Basil Mills’ creation, Impundulu, staged outdoors in freezing conditions by Dogs’ Dam, was a hoot! It had everything…from fire-eating to belly dancing (performed by the Lower Albany Turkish Delights who bravely combined sequined bra tops with thermals) and a children’s dance troupe. Don’t ask me what the story line was, but the objective seemed to be to incorporate every quirky act and character known to Grahamstown into a multicultural, mythical tale with absolutely no attempt to segue way seamlessly from one theme to another. It was…truly unforgettable.

But the major highlight of my visit was breaching the Australian government’s township travel ban. With the National Arts Festival as the backdrop, I made my way to the township ‘Kings Flats’ this week for the Australian Broadcasting Corporation in the interests of reflecting a different picture of township life to my country. I was taken to Kings Flats by Rhodes University student Asanda Ntame. Asanda, who is studying journalism in the hope of better representing his community’s interests, lives in Kings Flats with his extended family.

Despite the warnings and the statistical evidence of rampant crime and violence, my experience of visiting Kings Flats was ultimately inspiring. The poverty was visible – on the streets and in the simple character of the home I visited – but, as a foreigner, I was warmly greeted and welcomed. Children played on the streets, animals roamed freely, women washed together in their yards with stereos playing loudly. These were scenes far removed from the images of horrendous xenophobic violence Westerners have recently come to recognise as visual shorthand for township life in South Africa.

As Asanda Ntame told me “we are people just like Australians. We go about our daily lives here. People greet each other on the street. They love you, they want to get to know you. People need to remember that while other people may be different they are still people”. He described the Australian government’s travel ban applying to all South African townships as “ridiculous, based on a complete stereotype”. Every other South African I’ve raised this with concurs and that view is being reflected to the ABC audience in Australia.

During my visit to Kings Flats I was, however, struck by the absence of evidence of the festival that was enlivening Grahamstown in the valley below. I asked the shopkeepers I interviewed what their experience of Fest was. One of them, Mohamed Ali, a Pakistani refugee who fled the Free State after his shop was burnt to the ground four times in acts of xenophobic violence, said “I don’t even know Fest is on except when I go to town to buy supplies for my shop”. So life goes on as normal in the townships that wrap the hills of this city I’ve grown to love and respect in the few short weeks I’ve been here.

Despite its crazy weather, Grahamstown, with its quiet pre-fest streets and dilapidated colonial architecture, the many friendly people I’ve met, and the way the festival has absorbed and entertained me – from the main stage to the Village Green which showcases arts and crafts - have gotten under my skin. I heard Africa infects people like that…evidently, I’m not immune. People in Australia were worried I wouldn’t make it home alive. I will make it home alive…more alive than ever.

Note: A version of this article first appeared in Cue newspaper on July 5th, 2008    [read more]