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Poverty is in your face in South Africa.

When you step off the plane you are immediately confronted by people begging – open hands; scams at the ready; people offering to carry your bags, watch your car, watch your back.

My experience of this poverty is grounded in Grahamstown – a city of 70,000 with 70% unemployment and a community divided between the affluent mostly white residents of a pretty, historic town and the black masses who live in the Apartheid-era townships that sprawl across the hills on the city’s fringe.

Sure, I’ve been exposed to beggars and abject poverty before – homelessness and drug-related crime are significant problems confronting Australia’s big cities and many other global cities I’ve visited. But it’s the scale, age and colour of the poverty that confronts and challenges you in South Africa. The problem looks exclusively black. Young children and teenagers approach you with folded bits of paper and elaborate stories – “I’m raising funds to go to a track meet in Cape Town”; “Please mother can you help me? I fight the good fight” - appealing to your compassion and sense of social justice. And, they frequently work in pairs or teams, targeting those of us with pale skin, cars and other marks of affluence in this divided society.

The knowledge that it’s this widespread poverty that fuels the extraordinarily high rates of violent crime in this country affects my responses. I find myself feeling fearful and defensive when alone on the streets. I walk quickly; eyes alert; lock the car doors while driving. I’m annoyed with myself for behaving this way – but this defensiveness is not just the product of hysterical media coverage. The statistics on rape and murder in this country are genuinely alarming and demand self-preserving behaviour. SA has the highest rate of reported rape in the world; violent assault and murder are associated with petty theft; and crime figures released last year revealed that people were less safe in their homes in some districts than on the streets due to a sharp increase in home invasions.

But fearfulness also fuels a climate which subjects the bulk of law-abiding black residents of this town to suspicion. I heard a moving piece of reporting about this experience from a black student here at the Rhodes University School of Journalism and Media Studies. He produced a radio monologue in which he described what it felt like to be a poor alien in his own town. To him, Rhodes was a world far removed from his own life in the township on the fringe. Here, he said, everyone has a car; food to eat and basic needs fulfilled. To him, life on campus was like a wealthy parallel universe to his own existence and experience of life in Grahamstown. His voice cracked when he talked of being confronted twice by the “Rhodes Police” (campus security guards who patrol the grounds) who assumed he was a threat because he was dressed like a township resident. He felt like a criminal because he was poor and didn’t easily fit into the affluent and prestige-conscious Rhodes community. This experience clearly angered and unnerved him. The humiliation in his voice was palpable.

Poverty alienates. Poverty allows crime to thrive and drives fear. Here, poverty is inescapable but its victims are too frequently made to feel invisible. They’re there in the statistics and the media sub-texts, but their voices are too rarely heard. Next time I’m asked for money, I shall ask for a name and a story in return.    [read more]