Africa Calling

While thousands of immigrants sheltered in pseudo refugee camps in Johannesburg, I ran the gauntlet between the international and domestic terminals in a city riven by violence.

I arrived in South Africa four days ago - trying to pretend I wasn’t afraid. Fear is the stuff of life here. I’d been warned – about rape; AIDS; Joburg airport gangs; car-jacking; being murdered for my mobile phone; home invasions; xenophobic violence. Only a week before I left, the violent attacks on immigrants that claimed over 60 lives in South Africa, threatened to ground me as Australia's Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) issued a ‘do not travel alert’ for Joburg entire and all SA townships. The central piece of advice I’d received was “whatever you do, don’t leave Joburg airport”.

So, when it became apparent that I’d have to collect my luggage and walk between terminals, amidst a construction zone, to catch my connecting flight upon landing in Joburg, I felt obliged to be scared. And I was apprehensive. But even before I got off the plane, I felt more alive.

Welcome to Africa – land of contradictions that swallows your soul whole and makes you bend to its desires.

I’m here for 5 weeks to work on a journalism project at Rhodes University in the sleepy provincial city of Grahamstown which bursts alive during the South African National Arts Festival. But I’m also here on a personal journey…to push my boundaries, challenge my preconceptions and confront my fears.

Grahamstown is home to approximately 50,000 people - only 6,000 of them white – where the scars of Apartheid still require acute care. It’s home to a world-class university; several prestigious private schools and many churches. But the city is crippled by seventy percent unemployment; rampant poverty and governmental neglect.

It’s also a town whose landscape bears a striking resemblance to my own little village of Bungendore via Canberra. Rolling hills, colonial architecture, even gum trees appearing in the Rhodes grounds unexpectedly between the flaming aloes that colour the bush. But there the similarities end. Here, life is cheap and the battles for justice which found their armoury in this Eastern Cape region during the Apartheid years are not yet over.

I’m writing this at the end of National Youth Day on June 16th – a day which commemorates the anniversary of the 1976 Soweto student uprisings. On that day about 200 young people gave their lives in a protest against forced instruction in Afrikaans which turned violent when security police opened fire on the uniformed students. Ahead of the protest, one student wrote in The World newspaper: "Our parents are prepared to suffer under the white man's rule. They have been living for years under these laws and they have become immune to them. But we strongly refuse to swallow an education that is designed to make us slaves in the country of our birth”.

Tonight the anniversary is marked by poignant advertisements on the SABC in which little children say they dream of a day when they don’t have to fear rape and murder and xenophobic violence. It’s a wake-up call for dreamers like me who would like to believe Nelson Mandela’s Rainbow Nation vision is still an achievable reality. But the extraordinary capacity of South Africans to laugh in the face of adversity, and persevere in the presence of hardship, provides real inspiration and gives this interested observer hope.

As I explore this city and the township on its fringe, Joza, listening to myriad voices and looking below the surface dirt of violence, crime and poverty that stereotypes South Africa, I'll do my best to pedal that hope to you.